How to Choose the Right Paint Sprayer Tip for the Job

Choosing the right airless paint sprayer tip contributes greatly to the performance of your sprayer, the quality of the finish, and the success of the job. They’re incredibly important, not only because they control the width of the spray pattern and the paint flow rate, but because they ultimately determine how hard the pump should work while spraying. Spray tips are essentially the brains of the operation – so make sure you choose yours wisely.

There’s a lot that goes into that decision, from understanding the application and the type of coating you’ll be spraying to selecting the correct tip size and more. To that end, knowing how to read tip sizes is a great place to start.

Spray Tip Sizes 101

Paint sprayer tips all have size numbers that denote two specific factors – fan width and orifice size. Size numbers consist of three digits, and understanding what each digit means is key to choosing the right tip for the job.

Let’s use a 517 tip as an example:

• The first digit (5) is multiplied by two to indicate the approximate fan width (10 to 12 inches).
• The second and third digits (17) are the size of the orifice in thousandths of an inch (.017), representing the flow rate (i.e., how many gallons per minute will pass through the orifice).

The diagram below shows what happens when you change tip sizes.

In Example A, the three tips have the same fan width. As their orifice sizes increase, a greater volume of paint is applied to the 10-inch area, resulting in more paint per square inch.

Example B shows three tips that have the same orifice size (.017). As the tips’ fan widths increase, the same amount of paint is applied over a greater area, resulting in less volume of paint applied per square inch as the sizes go up.

Choosing a Tip Size

You’ll want to consider two things when deciding on a tip size – what type of surface is being painted and the coating being applied. Here’s how it works:

Fan Width: For larger surfaces like walls and ceilings, you’ll want a larger fan width for wider coverage of the area (8 to 24 inches). For smaller surfaces like deck boards, cabinets, and fences, you’ll want a smaller fan width (2 to 6 inches). 

Orifice Size: Generally speaking, when the coating is thin, you’ll want a smaller orifice, and when the coating is thick, you’ll want a larger orifice. Below are recommended orifice sizes for various types of coatings, based on a typical 12-inch distance from the surface with an 8- to 12-inch fan width.

Types of Coatings

Recommended Orifice Size

Varnishes, Lacquers & Sanding Sealers

0.011"

Clear Shellac

0.013"

Transparent Stain & Water Sealers

0.013"

Solid Stain

0.015"

Exterior House Paints & Interior Wall Paints

0.017"

Interior & Exterior Primers

0.019"

Commercial Grade Architectural Coatings

0.019"

Dry Fall & One Coat Primer Finishes

0.023"

Field Marking Paint

0.019"

Pavement Striping

0.023"

Pigmented Waterproofers

0.027"

Elastomerics

0.031"

Block Fillers

0.031"

 

Most paint and coating manufacturers include recommended orifice sizes on the technical data sheets for their products. Look for them on the paint can or on the manufacturer’s website.

Understanding Mil Thickness

Another key consideration is the mil thickness of the coating you’re applying, which will depend on the flow rate and the speed at which your hand is moving. If your hand moves fast, the mil thickness will be less than if your hand moves slow. With that being said, you can also compensate for your hand speed by using tips with different flow rates, or GPM ratings.

By using a tip with a larger orifice, you can spray faster and achieve the same mil thickness. For instance, a .017 tip sprays .31 GPM, a .019 tip sprays .40 GPM, and a .021 tip sprays .47 GPM. With the same hand speed, a 517, 520, and 521 tip will produce the same mil thickness.

Tips really are the brains of the spraying operation, so by applying this knowledge, you can complete jobs faster and with better results – while saving time and money in the process.  

Reversible vs. Fine Finish vs. HEA Spray Tips

Three of the most effective and commonly used types of spray tips are reversible, fine finish, and high-efficiency airless (HEA).

Reversible tips are primarily designed for ease of use, and supplemental filtration systems are not required. When in spraying mode, the tip is facing forward. When a blockage enters the system, you can reverse the tip by turning it 180 degrees, pull the trigger to spray the blockage out, and turn the tip back 180 degrees to continue working.

Titan’s SC-6+ reversible spray tip has a long-lasting orifice that provides more usable life while achieving up to a 22% wider fan pattern. It sprays a consistent film thickness while wasting less paint and comes in a wide variety of sizes used to spray coatings such as latex paint in residential or commercial applications.

Fine finish spray tips are designed for projects such as cabinetry, woodwork, and metal, and are perfect for use with stains, lacquers, light-bodied clear finishes, and other fine finish materials. The SC-6+ Synergy fine finish tip from Titan achieves a particle size up to 27% smaller than a standard tip and is pressure rated at 5000 PSI.

HEA tips are known for their revolutionary low-pressure technology, capable of putting paint in its place while decreasing overspray and extending the life of the pump. Titan’s HEA tips are optimized to spray all architectural paints and coatings at 1000 PSI at production speed, decreasing overspray by up to 55% to allow you to keep on spraying.

Shop our collection of airless spray tips to find the perfect solution for your next project.

Spray Smarter with Titan Tool

Boost every job with the unbeatable power, speed, and control of a Titan airless paint sprayer, elevated even further when paired with our industry-leading collection of smart, easy-to-use accessories. Built for maximum durability, Titan is the only business choice for best-in-class ROI and dedicated support whenever you need it.

Browse our electric airless paint sprayers, gas airless paint sprayers, or collection of parts and accessories to start experiencing better results, every time you pull the trigger.

Old wood siding, fast becoming a dinosaur in new construction, regularly needs the protection of a new coat of paint.

A professional will charge you between $4,000 and $6,000 to paint a 2,000-square foot, two-story house. But you can do it yourself in a few weekends for the cost of paint and supplies.

A good paint job can last 10 years. The key is proper preparation. Here are 10 steps to take to make sure your exterior paint job looks great, adds value to your home, and lasts a long time.

Step 1: Get the Lead Out

Do-it-yourselfers are not obligated to follow EPA regulations for lead-safe practices, as professional paint contractors must. But if your home was built before 1978, when lead paint was banned for residential use, you should protect yourself and your neighbors from airborne lead particles.

The first step is to test for lead paint: Kits are available for $10 to $35 online, and at paint and hardware stores. If tests prove positive for lead, keep paint dust to a minimum by taking the following precautions.

• Lay plastic drop cloths and collect scrapings.
• Clean area with a HEPA vacuum.
• Wear masks and Tyvek suits.
• Dispose of all materials at an approved hazardous materials site.

Step 2: Wash the Exterior

Mildew thrives under fresh paint, which won’t adhere well to dirty, grimy, spore-sporting exterior walls. So wash your home’s exterior before painting.

Use a mix of water and a phosphate-free cleanser such as Jomax House Cleaner ($15 per gallon) and Mildew Killer Concentrate ($8.50 for 32 ounces).

You can hand-apply the solution with a sponge, which will take forever and many trips up and down the ladder. Or, hire a pro to pressure wash siding--not a task for an amateur, who can damage siding by pushing water under boards. (Cost varies by location: $150 to $750 for a professional to pressure wash the exterior of a 2,100-square-foot house.)

Step 3: Scrape off Loose Paint

Once clapboards are dry, remove loose, flaking paint.

A handheld scraper is usually the best tool for the job, though you can also use a hot-air gun or infrared paint stripper. Never use an open-flame torch, which can easily start a fire and is illegal in most states unless you have a permit.

To work lead-safe, wear a mask and Tyvek suit, spray water on the paint as you scrape, and collect the debris.

Step 4: Sand Rough Spots

A pad sander or random-orbit fitted with 80-grit sandpaper will smooth out any remaining rough spots. Take care not to push so hard that you leave sander marks in the wood.

To be lead safe, use sanders fitted with HEPA filters.

Step 5: Fill and Repair

After washing, scraping, and sanding your wood siding, step back and inspect what you’ve uncovered--holes, dings, and chips.

Fill minor holes or dings in the siding with a patching putty or compound such as Zinsser’s Ready Patch ($20 per gallon).

If you’ve got a major rot problem, summon a carpenter to replace the bad wood. Also, fix drainage problems that cause water to pool and promote rot.

Step 6: Apply Primer

Apply primer immediately after preparing wood siding.

White, gray, or tinted primer provides an even base for topcoats to adhere to, and a uniform canvas from which to survey your work. Small gaps in joints and around doors, windows, and other spots where horizontals meet verticals will all stand out in high relief, showing where you need to fill in with caulk.

If you’re painting over bare wood or existing latex paint, then latex primer is fine. But if you’re painting over multiple coats of oil-based paint, it’s best to stick with a new coat of oil-based primer.

Step 7: Caulk All Joints

Siliconized or top-of-the line polyurethane acrylic caulks give paint jobs a smooth, pleasing look. But the benefits aren’t purely aesthetic. Tight joints also prevent air leaks and block water penetration.

Spring for the $7-a-tube polyurethane caulks with 55-year warranties, which will stand up to weather better than 35-year caulks that cost less than $3. The average house requires about seven tubes of caulk.

Step 8: Choose the Right Paint

Painting with water-based acrylic latex is so much easier than dealing with oil-based paints. Latex paint:

• Applies easily
• Dries quickly
• Cleans up with soap and water

If your house already sports an oil-based paint, which is more durable than latex, you’ll have to stick with it.

Choose finishes carefully. As a rule, the higher the sheen, the better the paint is at blocking the sun’s damaging rays. Satin is fine for shingles or clapboards, but you’ll want gloss paint to protect high-traffic parts of a house, such as window casings, porches, and doorframes. A gallon of premium exterior latex costs $35 to $45.

Step 9: Apply Top Coat(s)

Less is more when it comes to applying top coats. More layers can result in paint flaking off through the years; less paint bonds better to layers beneath.

If you’re going from a white house to yellow or cream, you might be able to get by with one coat. Going from a light to a dark house, and vice versa, usually requires two coats.

Step 10: Practice Good Maintenance

You can extend the life of a good paint job by:

• Inspecting the caulk every year and replacing any that’s cracked or missing.
• Removing mold or mildew.
• Washing stains from nesting birds and pollen.
• Touching up blisters and peels before they spread.

Related:  Paint with Confidence: The Ultimate Guide to Interior Painting